EP5: France (3 of 4)
In this episode we touch on: Pont du Gard, Arles, Lavender Fields, Gordes, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Verdon Gorge, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Italian Passport Benefits
Pont du Gard: Located approximately 20 KM from Nimes, this triple-tiered arched bridge was built in the first century by the Romans to enable the 50 KM aqueduct that supplied water to the town of Nimes to cross the Gardon River. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a stunning example of Roman ingenuity, design and skill. We first saw it on a Tour de France Broadcast and knew we had to visit! Tips: Go early to avoid crowds and there is a pay parking lot with a security guard, (at least when we were there). Notice the interesting and OLD graffiti, try photographing it in black and white. There is food on site and it is lovely to have a coffee and a bite to eat with a view of the bridge.
Arles Amphitheatre: Located in the city of Arles and near the Rhone River, this two tiered structure was built in 90 AD, and in ancient times, could accommodate over 20,000 spectators for chariot races and gladiator combats. Today it hosts concerts, plays and bull fights. We only had time to appreciate the exterior and because it is a smaller stadium, it is quick and easy to walk around with many lovely shops and restaurants lining the perimeter.
Lavender Fields: Located in Provence, in and around the Valensole area, the lavender fields bloom in mid/late June through mid/late July. Your best bet is end of June to early July. We were there on July 17th and some fields had already been harvested. Take caution as there are a lot of bees, but they won’t bother you if you don’t bother them! Be respectful and kind to the crop.
Gordes: A gorgeous hilltop town often found on top ten lists of “most beautiful towns in France”. It gets very busy in the summer, so be prepared for a lot of tourists! If you want a coffee with an astounding view, visit, Le Cercle Republicain. We purchased a delicious and unique lavender and thyme liqueur and the compact drone that we carry with us is called the Hover 1X.
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie: A pretty mountainous town with one-way streets that are difficult to navigate. Make sure you get detailed instructions on how to get there and where to park from your host. We thought we had good directions, but they weren’t good enough. We stayed at the Hotel Particulier des Lumieres and overall, it was wonderful. It was actually a multi-level, multi-room apartment, so we had a ton of room, easily could be for a family or couples. (I think it was called the Maisonette-Diderot). It had a balcony with lovely views overlooking the valley and the town, but it’s important to note - no Air Conditioning. That is one thing that can be few and far between in small towns, but also throughout Europe in general, so make sure to see if that’s listed as an amenity at your place. If not, than something like this portable FAN was a lifesaver! In addition, if you are doing a lot of walking, we couldn’t have survived without this mini massage gun!
Verdon Gorge: The Grand Canyon of France! This is another location that we saw on a Tour de France broadcast and were desperate to see in real life! The color of the Verdon river is an astounding blue-green and is even better in person. We kayaked through the Gorge, approximately 2K up to the buoy at the end of the allowable area. Get there before the rental places open so that you are first in line and first on the water. We chose the company closest to the Gorge entry to beat all of the other kayakers from other companies. The price differential is minimal and it was so nice to get a head start. We had NO ONE in our pictures for a long time, the same can not be said for the return trip. The Gorge was positively filled with watercraft! *You may need to pay for your rental in cash, smaller bills, so make sure you are prepared. I believe they gave us a water bag for our valuables, but I appreciated having my phone on a lanyard around my neck for easy and safer access.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape: This is a very famous wine region within France, home of the Granache grape and it’s red blends. We were overwhelmed by the amount of wineries, not sure where to go, or who to choose, so we turned to Google and it’s 5 star recommendations of this in-town wine connoisseur shop called Les Caves St. Charles. They collect and highlight all the finest vintages in the region from many different vineyards, so you get to try the best of the best and in their historic and charming cave/tasting room! It was exactly the kind of environment you want for a tasting. A rock wine cellar, holding bottles and barrels and lit by candlelight. Everything tastes good in that setting! We ended up shipping a case home of a variety of wines all from separate vineyards, so it was a unique experience that we stumbled upon, but in the end, felt very smart!
Chateau de Les Fines Roches: While we were in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, we stayed at this stately chateau that really looks like a castle! The original owner wanted it to look like a castle fit for the likes of the former Popes from nearby Avignon. Not only was the exterior impressive, but we stayed in the bi-level turret room with 360 degree views of the countryside. Our room was number 11, (the best) and here is the description of it from the hotel website, “The room is located on the third floor of the dungeon, it features an italian shower and a private access to the terrace”. We don’t think the word dungeon means the same thing, because this was the highest room, truly a magical experience fit for a king or queen and worth the splurge.
Theatre Antique d’Orange: The main reason we came to this region, (it wasn’t the wine, believe it or not) was to see and experience a show inside this historic theater in Orange. This is an ancient Roman theater built in the first century and it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, it hosts concernts and events and we were delighted to see the music of Tosca presented with a full orchestra and the main players from the opera. It was a lovely experience, but the Mistral winds wreaked havoc upon the show as the music sheets were flying and the music stands were toppled. We were chilled by the wind and uncomfortable on the rock hard seats, (literally they are the original stones) so perhaps bring a pillow like the locals do and don’t forget a jacket or sweater even if the day was hot.
Italian Citizenship: If you have Italian heritage, you may be able to apply for Italian Citizenship by Descent, called “Jure Sanguinis”. You would need to prove, with appropriate documentation, a line of transmission of citizenship from one generation to the next without interuption. Tony is trying to do this because having an Italian passport would give us more freedom to come and go throughout the countries in the European Union.